In the early 20th century, dark, dingy, cold ateliers in Europe were home to some of the biggest contributors of art.
One such breed was that of the Peruriars, the early creators of ‘costume jewellery’. Since they were not a part of any designers’ team, what they created was their own independent fancy.
One design, among many fielded, if chosen by the couturier, would provide sustenance for a while.
That chosen piece, then became part of a dress and thereby the unacknowledged partnership of the designer and the peruriar grew from strength to strength. Today, these pieces are synonymous with great fashion houses, the likes of Chanel, Dior and Balenciaga.
Stalwarts who gave it the sustaining push of life
• Coco Chanel, in her all encompassing fashion greatness, elevated it to the next level by having her chunky Maltese crosses set with real stones.
• Elsa Schiaparelli, genius and the creator of our everyday staples like the wedge heel and the colour — shocking pink, brought art and fashion together resulting in time transcending fashion. She designed jewellery like her garments, with a mad whimsical abandon incorporating circus themes, signs of the zodiac and inspiration by the surrealist artist Salvador Dali.
• Paco Rabanne ruled 1960s with his imagination and used unthought-of materials like wood, metal, paper and plastic for his outlandish designs.
• In 2006 when Tiffany took a huge chance and got the highly acclaimed, award winning architect, Frank O Gehry, to design their jewellery collection, it met with unprecedented success.
• Fashion houses like Lanvin showcased necklaces of huge proportions and Yves Saint Laurent made stacks of bangles and giant cocktail rings a part of its collection.
Today, costume jewellery is a part of our fashion staple with necklaces ruling the roost at Dries Van Noten, Lanvin (adorable bejeweled bows aka the signature oversized bows worn by creative head, Alber Elbaz and giant rose shaped chokers), huge plexiglass star shaped earring by Dolce and Gabbana to talk of just a few.
Indian jewellery has always been symbolic of craftsmanship, artistry and history. Our pieces are classics, passed along from mother to daughter, an important part of the fortunes of a family. One aspect that these pieces lacked was, perhaps, that of drama and quirky fun.
Designer Suhani Pittie feels, “With silhouettes getting simpler, jewellery is becoming that one factor that distinguishes you. Women now have such a strong sense of identity that finds reflection in everything they wear. Contemporary jewellery expresses freedom of thought both of the creator and wearer.”
Eina Ahluwalia, designer of concept jewellery, rightly observes, “This jewellery works for women across all events; be it work, active social life, beachside holidays or trips abroad. Traditional jewellery is saved up only for weddings and festivals. Our vast and different cultures have given inspiration to various individual aspects to fashion.” Pune-based designer, Neha Bhale feels, “Costume jewellery, with its diverse use of coloured stones and metals appeals to the Indian buyer.”
On being quizzed about the welcome that the Indian women have given costume jewellery, Suhani opines, “In the hectic lives we lead, there is little scope to convey our individuality. One can gather a lot about a person by their choice of jewellery”
Though, jewellery has always played a role of investment but with costume jewellery that too seems to be changing. As Suhani adds, “Indians are breaking out of the mindset of buying jewellery as investment and they are now ready to buy any element as long as it expresses who they are!” Costume jewellery, though, seems unswayed by trends and seasonality. One can easily integrate a vintage piece into a very modern look.
A Neha Bhale creation Neha: Finger rings with large colour stones and bold metal work and coloured gold (green, pink, white). Light jewellery, with minimum gold weight and designs that are free flowing with mellee of colour diamonds.
Suhani: Story telling necklaces and brooches with a cultural connotation and reference.
Eina: Mapping the current preferences against timeless classics:
• Armour inspired jewellery: knives as neckpieces.
• Metal lace: intricately cut metal that looks like lace.
• Brooches and even collages of a few brooches worn together.
• Pearls with a twist of something refreshing.
• Layers of chains and bangles.
Well, there you have it. Jewellery has never been so diverse or dramatic. There is no similar or common thread among these artists and their creations featured in this story. They are all marching to the beat of their own drummer by way of their raw material, workmanship, inspiration and aesthetics. Enjoy sporting these extravagant creations with playful spirit, whimsy and humour.
Source:
